Floor Polishing, Buffing, Waxing Or Refinishing ?

Maintaining floors to keep them looking their best can be done through floor polishing, buffing, waxing and refinishing. Though these terms may be utilized interchangeably or assumed as the same process, each is its own unique step tailored to a specific type of flooring. To understand which option fits your particular needs, one must first consider the particulars of the floor in question. This article will provide information so that you can perform an effective restoration yourself or hire an experienced professional depending on requirements. A complete guide outlining every floor type along with its applicable maintenanced details is included in this article.
To Summarize:

• Floor polishing can be done by hand with polishing products for all floor types.
• Floor polishing in professional terms means using a very high speed machine (burnisher) to remove some of the finish layer & give a high gloss. On wood floors this is called floor screening.
• Floor buffing in professional terms means using a slower speed machine called a buffing machine to coat & shine the floor with a buffing solution, this is the most common method for shining floors in the flooring industry.
• Floor polishing & floor buffing with machines is for hardwood, tile, marble, stone, concrete, VCT & linoleum, not for vinyl, luxury vinyl or laminate which can be damaged by machines.
• Sanding & refinishing uses a sanding machine to remove the top layer of wood floors & expose new wood which can be stained & finished with urethane or instead can be waxed.
• Waxing (Strip & Wax) is another way to seal & shine a floor – it’s most commonly done on VCT but is also used for unglazed floor tiles like terracotta & wood floors that aren’t urethane finished. Existing layers of wax sometimes need to be stripped if it’s causing the floor to look dull.
• Concrete Polishing is done with a machine for concrete which grinds the concrete to a smooth, shiny finish. Concrete buffing is done routinely to keep the polished concrete shiny.

When polishing or waxing residential floors, there are a variety of DIY products that can help. Before applying any product to your floor, ensure that it is suitable for the type of floor you have. Additionally, make sure that you properly clean and dry the surface first. Although there are plenty of good ratings for these products, it’s important to be aware that some users had less-than-favorable experiences and some were even required to pay a professional for repairs afterwards. Therefore, if you’re unsure about which product to use it may be best to consult an expert.

Floor Polishing & Buffing Machines

When it comes to achieving reliable results, professionals often rely on machinery. Floor polishing and buffing machines are routinely used on commercial floors, which tend to be much larger than residential areas and demand regular maintenance. Typically, the frequency of waxing or repolishing such surfaces will be between one to three months, while what experts recommend for residential floors that have been polished with a flathead mop and product is about six months.
Using floor-polishing and buffing equipment can make your floors shine like new faster and with more professional results. It’s important to take the time to understand how the machines work and which ones are appropriate for your floor type in order to avoid any potential damage from incorrect use. Floor buffing machines should only be used on harder surfaces including hardwood, tile, marble, stone, concrete, VCT and linoleum – but not vinyl floors such as LVT or laminate. Renting or purchasing a machine allows you to achieve polished results without having to resort to harsh cleaners or abrasive materials.
It’s important to consider which type of machine is best for the job. Different machines may be used for cleaning, buffing or waxing, polishing (burnishing), and sanding wood floors. For different tasks, you’ll need to pair the appropriate speed setting with a pad that matches the abrasiveness level required. Incorrectly pairing these components can damage your floor or render them ineffective, due to a clogged pad. To get the most out of all your equipment and materials, as well as operate your machinery properly, it’s best to seek assistance from professionals; however, any determined DIYer can figure it out with some care and attention.
Purchasing floor polish products to do the job yourself, you are simply polishing. But when procuring professional services that use professional machines, it becomes something else: floor buffing and floor polishing. Both of these processes can extend the life of your floors by removing buildup, scratches, and restoring shine. Each process requires a different machine due to the varying speeds of operation; buffing is done with 175 RPM or 1250-1500 RPM machines while polishing is done with heavier 15000-2500 RPM machines. Polishing will actually remove the top layer of finish while buffing will fill in any small nicks or scuffs. Buffing entails using a buffing solution (commonly referred to as ‘floor polish’) which is then polished for added shining effects and smoothness that lasts longer than regular polishing.
Buffing is a professional cleaning process that increases shine and decreases wear. It’s done in two steps: spray buffing, which applies the buffing solution to the entire area, then dry buffing, which buffs without any solutions and removes residue. This results in a long-lasting shine and can protect surfaces from damage. For further details, please refer to the information below.

Do It Yourself Procedures

Floor polishing with a polishing product and flathead mop is often used for residential surfaces. It’s important to check that the chosen floor product works for your specific floor type, as some are versatile enough to be used on multiple types. For wood floors, make sure it includes a urethane finish; alternatively, if there’s no such coating present then a wax should be applied instead of polish. If you’re unsure about your floor type or its associated finish, you can conduct a quick test by scraping a small area in the corner to see if any clearcoat substance is observed coming off.
A professional-grade deep clean is necessary to ensure optimum floor performance. Begin by sweeping or vacuuming the area (avoid beater bar attachments on wood surfaces). Employ a suitable cleaning product for your floor type and let it sit, then rinse with warm water. Make sure to dry all excess moisture before applying polish according to instructions using a flathead mop, moving from one corner outward so as not to step on the freshly polished area. Utilizing a fan may assist in quickly drying any residual liquid on the surface.
To ensure optimal results, allow the furniture to fully dry before exposure to heavy traffic or moving furniture. Many polishing products report that they should be applied every 6 months; however, some users have experienced unsatisfactory results even with their first use and had to go through additional steps to remove it. To avoid such incidents, we recommend consulting product reviews beforehand.
Floor Buffing (with a machine): Floor buffing machines can be used on a range of hard surfaces, including hardwood, tile, marble, concrete, VCT and linoleum (not to be confused with vinyl, luxury vinyl or laminate). Prior to using the machinery, it’s essential that you first deep clean the floor. Sweeping or vacuuming is recommended (though avoid beater bars when cleaning wood), before damp mopping with an appropriate cleaner for your type of flooring. After this it’s necessary to mop again with warm water only in order to remove any cleaner. Ensure that you dry the floor thoroughly with a fan before conducting a final dry mop. Before finishing off your cleaning routine, spray buff once or twice followed by a dry buff and one last dry mop for good measure!
• Spray Buffing (done with machine under 1000 RPM). Mix 1 cup of white vinegar into 1 gallon of water to make a buffing solution. Pour the solution into a fine mist sprayer and evenly disperse it onto the floor. Make sure to only apply enough liquid as you can buff before it dries. For best results, use a buffing machine with an appropriate pad and start in the corner furthest from the exit. Buff one 3×3 ft area at a time, spending extra time focusing on surface scratches and marks. Be mindful of buildup on the buffing pad, making sure to switch it out for another when necessary. To achieve added shine, do a second buffing pass over the entire floor.
• Dry buffing (with buffing machines): Spray buffing is performed first, and a dry buffing technique with the appropriate pad for the chosen floor should follow in order to remove any residual spray and create a dry, lustrous finish. The same back-and-forth technique should be used when dry buffing, focusing on scratched parts being given extra attention. Don’t forget to keep an eye on the pad for excess buildup – change it as needed.
Floor Paste Wax is a common treatment used on VCT (vinyl composite tile), unglazed floor tiles like Terra Cotta & unfinished wood floors. This wax is mostly made from natural ingredients, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, linseed and crude oil-derived oils. However, synthetic waxes – which are more convenient to work with and faster to apply – have recently become popular. In New York City and other areas of the US however, finishes such as water-based urethanes are preferred given the greater longevity they provide when compared to paste waxing. These are also considered environmentally friendly due to their reduced use of raw materials.
Before wax can be applied to a floor, it must be thoroughly prepared. Start with sweeping or vacuuming any dirt and debris from the area. Then deep clean with an appropriate cleaner and mop. Mop once again with only warm water to remove the cleaner residue, and then dry the floor completely using a fan. According to directions on the product container, apply wax in a light, even coat using a clean lint-free cloth. Once dry, use either hand buffing or machine buffing for optimal shine. Wood floors should typically be waxed twice a year; if buildup is causing the surface to look dull between cleanings, additional waxing may require removal of existing buildup using mineral spirits and manual (elbow grease) or machine scrubbing.
Strip & Wax is a job done mostly on VCT vinyl composite tile which is common in schools and hospitals. Whenever wax is applied the vct tile must be completely stripped of wax, scrubbed & recoated with four wax coats.

Floor Polishing Methods for All Floor Types

When it comes to making a floor shine again, there are specific polishing products available for your type of floor. These should be applied only after deep cleaning and following the instructions to the letter. It’s important to bear in mind that these products come with an element of risk, so it is recommended that a small area is tested first before using them on larger surfaces. Additionally, they should not be used in areas that may get wet. Although some reviews speak highly of certain products, other customers may have had negative experiences – especially if the product caused damage or extra work was needed for its removal and restoration of the flooring.
Bamboo: This factory-finished flooring will maintain its luster for several years and requires regular cleaning with a suitable cleaner, such as Bona or vinegar and water (1 cup of white vinegar to 4 cups of water). Though not explicitly labeled for bamboo floors, this product has been used on many wood floors and consumers have reported positive impacts on their bamboo floors. Machine use is generally not recommended when polishing bamboo.
Cork: Cork floors can be sealed, protected and made to shine with either a polyurethane finish or wax. Refinishing the floor involves completely removing and reapplying the urethane finish, while restoring just requires lightly sanding and buffing the existing urethane finish. If finished with polyurethane, one can opt to polish it with a wood floor polishing product or buffing machine, but if without polyurethane then wax should be used for sealing purposes either by hand or using a machine.
Concrete: This high-level flooring solution offers a refined look that can last a lifetime. Concrete floors are polished using machines, sealers and polishing pads at various grit levels. The result is a mirror-like finish that requires just minimal maintenance every year, such as buffing with a hair pad to maintain the shine. Read more about concrete floor polishing here.
Engineered wood: Engineered wood flooring is a veneer of hardwood attached to a backing and includes an acrylic factory finish. Due to this, sanding or refinishing may be limited in some cases; however, careful machine buffering or flathead mop application with wood polishing products such as Bona Hardwood Floor Polish can be used. This type of flooring should only be damp mopped for cleaning.
Laminate: Laminate generally shouldn’t be finished using a machine as this can damage the design layer beneath. The best way to keep it clean is by regularly mopping with spray laminate floor cleaner and a microfiber pad or lint-free mop. Additionally, there are several products available on the market that can be used to apply liquid polish onto laminate floors.
Linoleum: Machine buffing or polishing with a polishing product for linoleum can be done on linoleum after being cleaned with a linoleum floor cleaner. Homemade polish can be made with 1 cup of vinegar per gallon of warm water & few drops baby oil. Apply with a spray bottle & buff.
Marble: Marble can be machine-polished or hand-polished to reach a desired level of shine and lustre. To hand polish your marble, start by scrubbing it with a damp sponge or microfiber cloth and mild detergent, then rinse and wipe dry. You can create your own polishing solution by mixing three tablespoons of baking soda per liter of water; let the mixture sit for several hours before buffing with a clean cloth, following a circular motion that starts from large to small circles. For machine polishing, first clean the marble surface with pH neutral cleaner then sand and use an appropriate microfibre pad and powder.
Stone Tile: Stone may be polished with a buffing machine or by hand with a flathead mop & floor polishing product for stone. Use a cleaner & sealer product for stone. This polishing product is made also for stone
Tile (ceramic & porcelain): Ceramic tile can benefit from regular polishing with a product like Bona Hard Surface Floor Polish. Alternatively, for wax-sealed tile, machines or manual methods may be employed. For glazed ceramic tiles, it is necessary to apply a sealant annually for optimal protection of the grout. Further information about how to properly polish your tile floors can be found on the Bona website.
Vinyl: buffing machines are not used on vinyl as they can cause damage. Polish vinyl & luxury vinyl with a product like Bona Hard Surface Floor Polish or Quickshine. You can also make polish with 4 tbsp baking soda & 3 liters warm water. Liquid acrylic finish applied with a mop is another option to restore vinyl finish.
Wood: Wood floors can be restored in a variety of ways for different aesthetics and levels of wear. Professional refinishing involves removing the wood’s top layer to reveal a new, untreated layer. This method is the most lasting and effective for correcting deeper scratches. Alternatively, screening may also be done using a machine to slightly reduce and buff the surface protective finish without completely removing it. Machine buffing uses a buffing solution to fill in scratches, nicks, and restore shine. Waxing is necessary on non-urethane finished wood surfaces every six months to eighteen months depending on wear level.